Lesson 13 Linear Wave Theory

Keywords and Expressions

Violate：违反、违背

The still-water level：静水面

Sinusoidally：正弦函数

Progressive wave：行进波

Flat bottom：平底

Intermediate water depth：有限水深

RAO (response amplitude operator)：单位振幅运动响应因子

Hyberbolic function：双曲线函数

Iteration：迭代

Quantity：变量

Wave theories are approximations to reality. They may describe some phenomena well under certain conditions that satisfy the assumptions made in their derivation. They may fail to describe other phenomena that violate those assumptions. In adopting a theory， we must take care to ensure that the wave phenomenon of interest is described reasonably well by the theory adopted， since shore protection design depends on the ability to predict wave surface profiles ......     （共6605字）    [阅读本文]>>